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Brew-Monkey's Brewer InterviewofTony MageefromLagunitas Brewing Company
Joining us today is Tony Magee from Lagunitas Brewing Company. This has to take the cake for being the most entertaining interview I have done to date. He had me rolling... uhm... laughing - we'll get into that later. Now let's Take a walk on the wild side and see what Tony has to say.
How long does it take to settle on a recipe for commercial production?
I've got a hundred concepts for beers I'd like to make- and often the biggest obstacle is what to NAME it! We exhale well founded recipes all day long.. but it is a name that makes it all happen. So what if the newest Supermodel is way hot and she also has a name like... say- Imelda...? OK, that's a bad example... but the name does animate the beer and between the name and the flavor, if we are really really lucky, there is a story. A beer should be more than just a flavor, it needs to have a personality, and that requires a story. Cogito, ergo, sum.
How much trial and error went into the recipe?
Sometimes we'd make twelve or thirteen hundred different names before we decide who and what the beer is...
How did you decide on the beer styles you make?
Well, if it has a girls name, it is likely to be sort;a sweet, you know...., But if it has a name like MAXIMUS, it is more likely to be pale, bitter, and alcoholic... you get the idea.
How far removed from the initial idea is the final product we all now commonly drink?
Uh, I dunno...
What settings do you use for crushing grain?
Brutal, mayhem, and sometimes we set it for vivisection... why do you ask....?
Do you perform the legendary "20 minute" mashes? If not, how long do you mash?
Actually, we perform a three-step-mash... First we mash in the grains and then descend the three steps down from the brew platform and open the valve at the bottom. Sometimes that can take a while, it all depends.
What kind of efficiency do you normally get?
Sometimes I get it a couple of times a week... except for that one week... you understand... But I'd say I average 9 times a month. Thanks for asking!
How much fluctuation do you get from batch to batch?
Well, while we're on the subject, I can usually keep it fluctuating for as long as 15 minutes or so... I hope that's not disappointing...
How long does a typical brew session take? What is a typical brew day like?
Like I said, 15 minutes... why?
How often do you brew? What days do you brew?
Didn't I already answer this one...? About 9 times a month... OK, OK.... 7 times.... Whatever...
At what temperature do you do your mashes?
98.6 F
What type of mashes do you do?
OK... we do infusion mashes... 1-step... 1 hour... but isn't that boring by comparison?
How long does your boil commonly last?
Here we go again... ;-) ... 90 mins...
Do you adjust the water (use water modifiers) for the different styles or just go with the local water source?
No adjustment... I always think until a brewery gets to be a Sierra scaled operation you ought'a use the ingredients you find and make the best flavors you can. So, that means that our brewing water is a little soft in the spring when the supply is mainly from rain reservoirs and a little harder in the fall when it comes, in part, from wells. Good beer comes from all kinds of water and a little variation as related to the seasons is a cool kind of a thing, in my mind... for now.
What type of yeast do you use and how do you maintain your culture?
We use only single-cell yeast. The more highly evolved multi-cellular-wavefront-acretion varieties are too patrician for our needs. We harvest yeast once a week and subject it to very close scrutiny for viability, cell health, vitality, sociability, language skills, and any communicable diseases... We keep that weekly harvest in a brink and dispense it for pitching during the following week.
How many times do you reuse your yeast from batch to batch?
Eight to Ten generations, but sometimes that can represent 30 or forty batches.
What about hops... do you use whole or pellet hops? Why?
Pellets. They stay fresher longer, are easier to store, and work good in the brewers sling-shot.
What are your thoughts on the "hop revolution" that is apparent these days - that is to say the ever increasing use of hops to see who can create the hoppiest beer.
Anything that keeps craft brews a part of everybody's conversation is cool with me. We make a double IPA (MAXIMUS) and I dig it the most, for sure. BUT... I will say that our original LAGUNITAS IPA, the best selling IPA in the Great State of Califukinfornia, is more about balance and texture and tone than just hops... That is a harder trick to make beer do, in my mind, and nicer to quaff. In any case, Spinal Tap bragged that they were the LOUDEST band on tour at the time, and loud is just not new. Bring it on! Whatever.
Do you use a Whirlpool or Filter method? If neither, which do you use?
We use a Whirlpool after the Kettle.
What finings or clarifiers do you use if any?
None... We do filter the finished beer prior to bottling... but no other prescription clarifiers... you know, PPVPCP... and stuff...
What temps are most ales fermented at on this level?
We go kinda cool for ester-control and yeast health reasons. About 64 F.
Do you pasteurize or add preservatives?
Nope. Word.
Which award are you most proud of and why?
We won the Silver Willie Cup in 1712. Since then we ain't won snot. In reality, we don't enter competitions. Mostly. OK, my old lab guy pushed me to enter the GABF the last couple of years and my marketing guy made me enter the CA State Fair too, but that is all of it... Truly, I would rather not do any of it. I agree with George C. Scott when he was offered an Oscar for his role in Patton. He said he didn't want it and called a sort of grotesque meat parade. The last time I went to the GABF, a brewery won in a category that we entered (and got trounced in...) and so I went over and tasted their beer at their booth, and the beer was pretty marginal.... curious, no? Either the judges were drunk, or the beer being poured at the booth was not the same one they entered. Whatever. It is much easier to make a great beer once than to try to do that eight times a day as we do. It is very, very difficult... but it is a way more worthy ambition, I think. (Am I pissing anybody off...?) Homebrewing is fun and unpredictablility is part of the enjoyment, but I'm asking someone to give me somm'a their money... that's heavy.
Do you have any techniques or processes that are unique to your brewing/brewery? Can you tell us about it/them?
Nope, not really. For us it is just straight missionary style. Maybe the big difference between us and others is that we look GOOD doing it!
How does one make beer out of goat's milk, brambles, and asphalt on the surface of the Moon?
The three E's of brewing... Experience, experience, and experience..
Where does the very creative verbiage on the labels come from? Are there any stories about that?
Did I ever mention that Sonoma County is one of the foremost growing regions in the world for certain Marginally-Medicinal agricultural products...? It's true. [editor note - I told you we'd get back to that]
What kind of staff do you have there? Can you break it down for us (positions and what not)?
Imperial Warlord (me), a bookkeeper, me esposa (Operations Manager), a Marketing Manager (Ron, the Beer Weasel), 5 marketing foot soldiers, a nice front desk lady (Ali), a brewing supervisor and his five brewing elves, a Packaging Supervisor and his 8 packaging trolls, a Lab Skank, a maintenance guy (WAY important), and our other partner... the ATF (now the TTB). How many is that...? 97?
What do you see in the future for you and your company?
More of the same... beer, beer, more beer, more debt, more hard work, more bad lighting, more markets in the East, more stainless stuff, and more of the sort of fun we've been having for the last 12.5 years... Could be a lot worse, if you ask me. In reality, brewing is a glamorous and enviable lifestyle!
Brewery info:
Location: Earth, Petaluma
How long has the brewery been around: Since 1993.
What is the yearly production? 36M barrels this year!
How many different beers are made and how many are bottled? Where do the rest go? They are ALL bottled and kegged to some extent since we are Pub-Free!
What is the current distribution? The West Coast, NY, MA, ML, CO, AZ, TX, RI, WI (coming summer '06) OH, PA... something like that...
Brewer Profile:
Name: Jeremy, Randal, Tim, Shane, Ryan, and Ringo.
Date Of Birth: Me...? 5/29/60
Current Brewery: Lagunitas, of course....
What kind of education do you have? I dropt outta colledge in 1982 and later gotta degree in howt'a make ends meet.
Did you attend a Brewing School?
Nope.
How long have you been brewing?
Since 1993...
How long have you been at your current job?
Since 1993...
What did you do previous to this job?
I made book at Bay Meadows
Every brewer has high and low points... what are yours?
High Point: Having the Business and Brand grow really fast....
Low Point: Having the Business and Brand grow really fast....
What is your favorite beer style and why?
IPA. Word.
What is your Favorite beer?
Rochefort 10
Which beer do you enjoy brewing the most? Why?
Our Hairy Eyeball Ale every December for January release...
Do you still brew at home? What do you like to brew if you do?
Less, but sometimes... Sometimes I fool with distilling... THAT is fun... Like Fritz Maytag said... Brewing is magic, but Distilling is alchemy!
Personal notes/outside interests:
1920's Blues/Ragtime/Bottleneck Guitar and making shit up.
Do you have any other notes or things of interest.
Bb, C#m, and Ab+.
Thank you Tony for your time and that break from the norm. There is some good info in here, so cheers to Tony and Lagunitas Brewing Company.
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